If there’s one thing I’ve learned after nearly four decades as an esthetician, it’s that breakout-prone skin is never completely predictable. You can be doing everything “right” and still wake up with a blemish. That’s why my approach has always been twofold: 1. do what you can to make breakouts less likely to appear in the first place. 2. And when one does show up, treat it based on what kind of blemish it actually is to make it go away fast with the least amount of scarring.

This is the same way I’ve approached breakout-prone skin on thousands of clients over the years. The biggest mistake I see is treating every breakout the same, or throwing so much at the skin that you end up creating more irritation than clarity. This is exactly what I spoke about on stage at a recent skincare trade show with estheticians.

As an expert esthetician, here are the four things I want you to focus on.

1. Do What You Can to Prevent Breakouts Before They Start

I always say estheticians are detectives, and I want you to be a little bit of a detective with your own skin, too. Have you noticed a pattern when you break out? Is it around your cycle? After traveling? When you’ve been wearing heavier makeup? Did you introduce a new product? There isn’t one universal reason people break out, so I pay close attention to patterns instead of assuming there’s one cause.

From a skincare standpoint, keeping pores clear is one of the most important things you can do. I’m a huge believer in salicylic acid because it’s oil-soluble, which makes it especially useful for clogged, breakout-prone pores. BHA Clarifying Serum is one of my go-to leave-on exfoliating serums for helping keep pores clear and smooth.

I also like to create an environment where breakouts are less likely to thrive. Rapid Response Detox Masque is one I recommend often because it combines ingredients like tea tree and manuka oil while still being hydrating and barrier-conscious. I especially like it when skin feels like it may be heading in the wrong direction. This includes, after travel, heavy makeup, sweating, or during a time when you know when you’re more breakout-prone.

The goal isn’t to promise yourself you’ll never get another breakout. It’s to stack the odds in your favor.

2. Know What Kind of Breakout You’re Dealing With

Not all blemishes are equal, and this is where a lot of people go wrong. A deep, sore bump under the skin should not be treated the same way as a pustule that’s coming to the surface.

If it’s a painful, cystic-like bump that stays under the skin, don’t pick it and don’t try to force it to the surface. These are the breakouts I treat with a targeted, non-drying spot treatment. Anti Bump Solution was specifically formulated for this type of stubborn, “underground” breakout. 

If the blemish is moving toward the surface, the strategy is different. I don’t want you aggressively drying it out too early, because that can leave you with flaky, crusty skin sitting on top while the blemish is still underneath. A pimple patch can be helpful at this stage simply to keep your hands off.

Once a whitehead has fully surfaced, that’s when a drying spot treatment makes more sense. Night Time Spot Lotion uses ingredients like sulfur and zinc for surface-level, pustular blemishes.

If you want the full play-by-play, I’ve written a much deeper guide on how to make a blemish go away fast. But the biggest takeaway is this: respect the life cycle of the blemish instead of fighting against it.

3. Don’t Fight Fire With Fire

When I started as an esthetician, acne care was all about drying, stripping, and attacking the skin. Gone are the days of fighting fire with fire. (This is an example of when harsh products can go too far.)

If your skin is red, tight, flaky, irritated, or just feels like it has had enough, adding another strong acne product may not be the answer. Sometimes the most productive thing you can do is calm everything down and support the skin barrier.

For breakout-prone skin that needs hydration without heaviness, I like an oil-free, barrier-supportive moisturizer such as Skin Recovery Lotion. It gives the skin water and barrier support without the greasy feel people with acne-prone skin are often afraid of.

This is one of those times when doing less (and supporting your skin barrier) can actually help you get back to clearer, calmer-looking skin faster.

4. Treat the Post-Breakout Mark as Part of the Breakout

Here’s what I know: a blemish is temporary, but the post-breakout mark can linger for months. That’s why how you handle the blemish from day one matters so much.

Once the breakout is gone, my focus shifts to fading the discoloration and keeping the skin protected. I like a combination of brightening ingredients, gentle exfoliation, and daily sunscreen.

For discoloration, HyperFix Fading Toner is one of my favorite daily steps because it combines 3% tranexamic acid with 2% niacinamide in a hydrating formula. I also like THDA vitamin C and regular exfoliation to help keep the skin looking clear and even-toned.

And please, please don’t skip sunscreen. UV exposure can make post-breakout discoloration look darker and linger longer. Weightless Protection SPF 30 is lightweight and designed with breakout-prone skin in mind.

For a deeper dive, read my guide to fading post-breakout marks.

The Bottom Line

Clearer skin usually doesn’t come from doing more to it, but rather, it comes from learning what your skin is telling you and using the right strategy at the right time.

Prevent what you can and know what kind of breakout you’re dealing with. Remember that the job isn’t over when the blemish goes away, the mark it leaves behind deserves a plan too!

That’s the approach I’ve relied on for decades, and it’s still the advice I come back to again and again.

I hope you found this information helpful! I know the estheticians who heard me talk about it did!