Exfoliating Acids: Skin Tips for Using Them Correctly

The introduction of acids has been one of the biggest advancements in skin care. Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids are two of the leading examples of skin exfoliating acids. These ingredients entered the skin care scene in the 1980s and because of the clearer skin that resulted from these newly discovered skin treatments they continue, today, as regular ingredients in products that successfully eliminate multiple skin conditions.

Benefits of exfoliation include:

-skin appears smoother—practically overnight

-reduction in clogged pores and breakouts

-increased collagen production

-a more even-toned complexion

-reduction in brown spots…

-reduction in post-breakout acne scars

-fine lines are softened and appear less noticeable

-dryness and flakiness are greatly reduced

-serums and moisturizers will work better when dry cells on skin’s surface are removed

Because exfoliating acids are so widely used today, they are found in many products including cleansers, toners, skin peels, moisturizers, and serums.

Although exfoliation can result in tremendous improvement of the skin, it is important to use exfoliants in a safe and most effective way. Here are helpful tips to ensure you’re getting the best results from exfoliating acids.

-Perform a patch test if your skin is extremely sensitive. If you have extremely sensitive skin and are prone to allergic reactions, it is always recommended to perform a patch test for compatibility, prior to using any new products—especially exfoliating acids. The best place to patch test acids is on the side of the face near the ear. The area near the ear is similar to the skin on your cheek but it’s slightly out of the way so if there is a negative reaction, it can be hidden easily. You will still need to follow the directions on the jar or bottle. Wait 24 hours and if there isn’t a negative reaction, you’re all set to use the product regularly. (Note: When acids are applied to the skin, a tingling sensation is normal but usually will subside shortly after.)

Read: When is it Okay for My Skin Care Products to Tingle?

-Use only at night. It has been shown that using exfoliants regularly increases sun sensitivity by 45 percent. Acids that are left on the skin for extended periods of time (i.e. Moisturizers, serums) should only be used during the evening–cleansers that are rinsed right off are not considered in this category. Acids get better results at night because your skin is in repair mode and acidic ingredients encourage and aid in skin repair. 

-Use acids formulated for your skin type. We have created three different strengths (10%, 17% and 20%) of our Glycolic Serums based on the type of skin you have. While people will gravitate to the stronger percentage thinking it will give them better and faster results, it’s definitely possible to overdo it and cause oversensitivity. Choose your skin type to see which formula is right for your skin.

-Do not use acids or exfoliate daily. Acids that are left on the skin, such as acid-based serums or moisturizers, should not be used on a daily basis. Research continues to show that when the skin is exfoliated daily, the inflammation created (even if not visible) will accelerate the aging process (Read: Science Lesson: The Free Radical Theory of Aging). In the case of our Glycolic Acid Serums, we suggest that they be used only three nights on, three nights off, alternating with a hydrating skin serum. The idea behind this routine is that for the first three nights, the exfoliating acid continues to work deeper within the skin every night that it is applied. Then, after three nights, when the skin is well exfoliated, you will use a hydrating serum to feed the “new” cells with nourishment by use of performance ingredients. See our collection of specialty serums.

-Use caution with acids if using the Clarisonic brush. I’ve reviewed this brush before and I highly recommend that you do not use it as often as they suggest—especially if you’re going to be using acids. Read: Is the Clarisonic Brush Harmful or Helpful to the Skin?

-Use as directed. Of all the skin care categories, exfoliating acids are the one type of product where it is absolutely crucial to follow the instructions. It is far too easy to overdo it if you use the product more often than directed or apply it in the wrong way. I have had an abundance of clients through the years who have told me that they can’t use acids because they cause irritation or breakouts. However, after instructing these individuals on how to properly apply these skin care products, they now use them just fine. Go easy and use as directed.

-If experiencing discomfort, discontinue use. It is so important to listen to your skin. While it can be a bit tricky to discern discomfort from diligence with acids, a tingling sensation is normal but a prolonged burning sensation is not. Read: Your Skin is Talking to You. Are You Listening?

-Be sure to use calming antioxidants in your other skin care products. Inflammation (even if your skin never shows redness) is known to be the underlying cause of aging and can work against your intention to achieve more youthful-looking skin, especially if you are using many exfoliating products in your routine. Read: Must-Have Skin Care Ingredients for Those Who Exfoliate Regularly.

Here are the Renée Rouleau products with exfoliating acids:

-AHA/BHA Cleansing Gel

-Glycolic Serum 10%, 17% and 20%

-Triple Berry Smoothing Peel

To get the best results that acids are sure to deliver, the goal is to find a balance between using the products aggressively and effectively, while avoiding irritation and overuse.

Read: Is Your Skin Shiny? Over-Exfoliation May be the Problem

Which products are right for you? See our nine skin types and get products recommended.

For expert skin advice, check out Skin Source–the A-Z guide on all things skin. Also sign up here for our skin tip e-newsletter, follow Renée Rouleau on Twitter and like our Facebook page. You’ll be your own skin care expert in no time!

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Information courtesy of www.ReneeRouleau.com, a website with skin care tips, products based on nine skin types and advice from skin care expert and celebrity esthetician, Renée Rouleau.